vanessabruno+ Marie Laurencin / Sensitive existence
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“ Elle transcende le porter du vêtement et lui donne une élégance très parisienne”它超越服裝的本質,營造出非常優雅的巴黎人- vanessabruno
今天要分享的是私人的聯想風格,起因是我看見一個讓我全身起雞皮疙瘩的美妙 東西之後的一串幻想。並不是真的有什麼相關性,如果真要說有什麼相關性,那就是本人我 (笑)。切入主題,那個讓我高潮的就是vanessa bruno和導演Stéphanie Di Gusto 、演員Lou Dillo ( daughter of Frenchdirector Jacques Dillon and English singer Jane Birkin and stepsister to Charlotte Gainsbourg) 一起合作的short film ,創造出如夢幻般的現實,探索且描繪出簡單又複雜女性氣質,孤單卻又強韌的詩意。
看完這影片,我聯想到了Laurencin 的畫作,Laurencin最初以詩聞名,也出版了詩集。1904年進入安貝爾藝術學院,開始正式習畫,在一個周圍成立立體派的年代,用水彩及粉彩,幾乎透明的淡粉、淡紫和淡灰飄動的線條像是隨時消失的煙霧,用柔和的淡濁色調和曲線的抽象形式描繪神話動物,舞蹈家,和女演員,呈現一種夢幻優雅的女性特質,靜靜表現出精神層面的深度,自學出她獨特的風格。Laurencin's own self-portrait, in prose rather than on canvas, reads: "Loves luxury, very proud of being born in Paris. Knows all the songs from "Sylvie", (an operetta). Dislikes speeches, scoldings, advice, and compliments. Eats fast, walks fast. Paints very slowly."
後來在artinfo看到一則 Q&A with French Designer Vanessa Bruno的訪談,我擷取了兩個段落,裡頭透露出推崇一種神話精神追求昇華的女性與努力創造出視覺和情感的詩歌:
Your muses are Lou Doillon, Joanna Preiss, and Hélène Fillières. What does the Vanessa Bruno woman look like?
I worked with Mark Borthwick for eight years. We did 10 or so catalogs together. They are like precious little books that you want to keep. Even if they have to represent the brand, they must also be thoroughly modern. It’s great when you can look at something that you liked 10 years ago and that you’ll still like in 10 more years. When I work on a collection, I need to sublimate the Woman, to find an icon, to tell a story about all this. The catalog is an extension. I get involved in the creative direction of the project. For two years, my film work with Stéphanie Di Giusto has allowed the collection to be made physical in a more tangible way. We write the screenplay together and we try to create visual and emotional poetry. 彷彿"時時刻刻",由日常的瑣碎生活細節,呼應三個不同年代的女人,讓妳感覺到自我的意識流動。每個存在於表面平靜的現實生活的女人,旁人是無法感知剎那之間的感動、頓悟,和複雜的內心活動,那些必須讓自由游移於不同時空的靈魂構成精神上的存在。另外一提幫vanessa bruno 做平面攝影的Mark Borthwick,亦是個著重自我意識的攝影師(請參考SEDE magazine ),他的妻子 Maria Cornejo也是一個我喜歡的fashion designer,他的影像某種細微光線或不經意似地幻彩曝光,替vanessa bruno打造出如夢境般的質感。
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